do I need powder?

Powder should meld into the skin without leaving a powdery hue or add any further colour to your foundation. I think powder puffs deliver too much product and can leave skin looking a bit mask like and unnaturally flat. I always apply powder with a brush as each hair holds and delivers a tiny speck of powder to the skin which is enough to reduce shine.

How to apply powder with a brush.

First rule is to apply a little at a time rather than loads at once. Lightly load brush with powder and holding brush at right angles to the face press onto skin reloading as necessary. Roll brush under and around eye area and nose and then finish off brushing and buffing skin by sweeping the brush outwards either side of nose and upwards over brow and forehead.

Powder correction

Don't get into a stew if you think you have used too much powder, don't try to rub it off, just lightly press the skin all over with your hands which will remove the excess. Alternatively use a very fine mist water spray.

do i need a foundation?

On every shoot as a Make-up artist I always start with the foundation on pretty much all occasions, on all skins and on all subjects. It is the first thing to get right because even if you don't wear anything else, good skin makes you feel a million dollars, and once you have skin that looks fresh and flawless you can leave it natural or use it as a clean canvas on which to create your mood.

So lets start at the beginning.

In my experience the majority of black women have fantastic skins. But it is normal over the years to experience some changes which can be caused by a whole range of things: our 24-7 lifestyle, weather conditions, smoke, teenage spots, the odd touch of eczema, which over time can lead to permanent blemishes and dark areas of pigmentation and particularly on women of colour whose skins mark so easily.

A foundation will put all this right and should cover blemishes, neutralise dark areas and even out skintone. Even on perfect skin, the lightest touch of foundation not only makes a girl feel ready to take on the world, but also provides the skin with a layer of protection against the drying effects of sun, wind, AC and central heating.

The aim is to have fresh, natural looking skin and not a mask-like appearance.

Remember, you don't always need the full slap, you can look fantastic with just foundation.

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choose the right foundation

This is not as difficult as you may think. If you hold your hand up to your face you will find that they are two totally different colours, so the first thing is: do not test foundation on the back of your hand.

You must test for the correct colour on your face, and always, always, always in good natural day light. Try a little on the cheek area by putting a little of the product on your finger and blend out over the cheek, then back and up the side of the nose and round nostril.

Do not be afraid to mix colours which all make-up Artists do.

how to apply foundation

Foundation can be applied in different ways: using a sponge, fingers or brush. Professionally I use all methods, but I'm generally making-up a range of people, creating a whole range of effects. For a regular beauty make-up, I would recommend applying foundation with the fingers or a sponge.

Always apply foundation in natural daylight, by a window is good, facing the light, not with your back to it.

Stoke foundation onto skin down nose, on both cheeks and a dot on chin. Then smooth over skin blending out over cheeks, around nostril, jaw and lastly up to forehead. Be careful to blend your base away around jaw line and hairline. The blouse & skirt base blends away for a matte finish. If stubborn blemishes or dark areas remain follow selected coverage guide.

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for selective coverage

You don't have to apply foundation all over the face, but can just cover blemishes, dark under eye area, or spots. For this you do need to apply with a brush for precise placing of product.

Load up brush with just enough foundation to leave a light trail of colour when rubbed on the back of hand. Apply to required area and blend with fingers. On small areas you must build up coverage to mask out blemish, so do not apply too much foundation too soon. For stubborn spots, pinpoint coverage by using the point of the brush applying foundation with a dotting motion.

Finish off by setting foundation, blotting with bb blot paper used over a puff, pressing all over face to also remove shine and leave a cool, matt finish.

lips

The blouse & skirt glossy range are colours chosen to enliven skintone whether you want the natural or more glamourous party look.

Again fashion does not stand still so chuck out the rule book and go mad with colour for high fashion cat walk looks. For example: Use two complementry colours - darker shade on top lip and lighter on bottom. Or the same colour all over and then with a lighter gloss highlight the middle of the bottom lip. Colours should be blended so they merge into each other.

Or for busy 24-7 gals, just gloss up with one colour and go!

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